By Kurt Loft of The Tampa Tribune
Published: October 15, 2003

TAMPA – The Spain Restaurant for years was a dependable hole-in-the-wall on Twiggs Street , a place to grab a Cuban sandwich or a hot plate of boliche for lunch.

But the old cafeteria got an uptown makeover with its new digs around the corner on Tampa Street, sporting a stark white interior, simple tables and streamlined bar. The retro, galvanized decor lacks warmth, but with barely a speck of dust anywhere, it’s obvious the owners run a clean and efficient ship. More important, they aim to impress with a happy hour tapas menu on weeknights and formal dinners on Friday and Saturday.

After a quarter century at the previous spot, the remodeled Spain is nestled on the ground floor of a three-story building dating from the 1920s. The restaurant brings culinary relief to the war zone of downtown Tampa , which refuses to support, much less attract, a vibrant night life. But with the delicious array of tapas selections and a refreshing homemade sangria, the Spain could quickly become an evening hangout for the working class.

Owner Maria Castro, who was born in Galicia , already caters to a lunch crowd that gobbles up such tasty dishes as sauteed grouper, baked chicken and roast pork. She also cooks simple breakfast specials, guava pastries and something Tampa coffee lovers can’t get enough of: cafe con leche and cheese toast.

The menu includes more than two dozen hot and cold tapas, ranging from $3 to $8 and traditionally nibbled on over a glass of sherry. A good start is the Pulpo a la Gallega, a simply prepared octopus in olive oil, garlic and paprika; or Chorizos al Jerezcq, sliced sausages in a rich wine sauce. A cool glass of sangria offsets the spiciness of the chorizos.

The Tortas de Cangrejo, crab cakes with chutney, are appetizing if small, and the Pollo Villarroy isn’t the expected order of chicken tenders but a single tender that for $5 is barely a mouthful. Cold tapas worth biting into are the Ensalada de Atuncq, white Spanish tuna with capers and mayonnaise over greens; a piquant ceviche; steamed mussels with vegetable vinaigrette; and Espanolas Curtidas, a mix of serrano ham, manchego cheese and Spanish olives.

The restaurant brings out formal tablecloths on Friday and Saturday nights, and serves entrees that include a house salad, rice or vegetable, and bread. The paella is the big ticket, chock-full of clams, mussels, scallops, shrimp, chicken, ham and chorizo. The

kitchen cooks a plain but generous Grouper a la Russa with a

vegetable sauce, and a more aromatic crabmeat-stuffed grouper with lemon.

Other traditional dinner choices are Seafood Crepes in white sauce; Beef Tenderloins with onions, mushrooms and sherry; Pork Medallions with mushroom sauce; and the ever-present Arroz con Pollo.

We can only hope the Spain takes hold and keeps more people downtown after dark. With its affordable and hearty fare, attractive bar and friendly management, the restaurant just might start a trend.

CRITIC’S RATING: Food: C+; Service: B

CHILDREN’S MENU: Can accommodate

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Dinner entrees range from $8 to $15; tapas selections range from $3 to $8